В конце 19 века коренные жители Гавайских островов стали возвращаться к истокам в новых условиях в составе США и серфинг, как часть коренной культуры, стал активнее практиковаться на лодках и досках. Повсеместно открывались новые отели, отдыхающим на островах богатым американцам стал интересен необычный вид водного спорта и они стали его осваивать.
Важную роль в популяризации серфинга за пределами исторической родины сыграли не только известные для каждого серфера люди 20 века – Александр Хьюм Форд, Дюк Каханамоку, Джордж Фрит, Джек Лондон, Марк Твен и Агата Кристи (о них речь пойдет в следующей части), но и малоизвестные авторы и художники века девятнадцатого. Обо всех этих людях пойдет речь в этой статье.
Содержание:
- Первые художественные изображения серфинга 18-19 века
- Первые упоминания о серфинге в прессе 19 века
- Первые упоминания в литературе 19 века
Первые художественные изображения серфинга
До 1900 года выходило множество книг с иллюстрациями серфинга, не ставших такими популярными, как книги известных писателей чуть позже. Выкладываем для вас эту интересную галерею с подписями, датами и местом их публикации.
Charles Gold: Catamaran surfer, Madras, India, 1800. (detail) The earliest known image of surf riding.
Charles Gold: Catamaran surfer, Madras, India, 1800. The earliest known image of surf riding.
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Wahine and surfboard, circa 1875. This important early board portrait image is only preceded by Pellion’s The Houses of Kraimokou, (circa 1819).
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1818 Phillip Parker King: Raft rider, off Lewis Island, Northern Australia.
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Jacques AragoorAlphonse Pellion: The Houses of Kraimokou, circa 1819. First image of an Olo board.
Isaac Taylor: Surf Swimmers, (Sandwich Islands), 1830. The earliest known image of Hawaiian surf riding.
Isaac Taylor: Surf Swimmers, (Sandwich Islands), 1830. The earliest known image of Hawaiian surf riding.
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F. Howard: Sandwich Island Surf-riders, 1831. Often cited as “The first Western image of surf-riding.” Illustration from Ellis, Rev. William: Polynesian Researches: Hawaii. Fisher, Son and Jackson, London, 1831, frontpiece.
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F. A. Olmsted: Sandwich Islanders Playing in the Surf, 1841.First image of surf riding by the same author and artist.Lithograph by Endicott, New York.
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Hawaiian Surfing, Hilo Bay, Hawaii, circa 1850. Mr. and Mrs. Don Severson Collection.
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Hawaiian Sport of Surf Playing, 1851. First surf riding illustration published in a magazine. Published in Cheever, Rev. Henry T. : “The Sandwich Islands Today” The International Monthly Magazine of Literature, Science and Art. Volume IV, Number III, October 1851. Stringer and Townsend, New York. and Cheever, Rev. Henry T.: Life in the Sandwich Islands.
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James Gay Sawkins : Surfboard, a bathing scene, Lahaina, circa 1855. Water colour, National Library of Australia.
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Surf swimming at Hawaii, Sandwich Islands, 1866.Most likely a copy of Harden S. Melville’s Surf Swimming off the Coast of Hawaii, 1863,above.
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Surf-bathing Success, 1872.One of two illustrations to accompany Mark Twain’s account of surf riding in Hawai’i.Twain, Mark: Roughing It.
Pacific Rural Press, Volume 5, Number 13, 29 March 1873
Pacific Rural Press, Volume 5, Number 13, 29 March 1873
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Wallis McKay: Surf-swimmers, 1870. A highly detailed image denoting riding positions, stance, duck-diving, waves in sets, off-shore winds and significant wave height.This is very similar in composition and style to Wallis McKay (1873), see below. Either McKay was responsible for this illustration, or this artist was influenced her work.
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R. Richardson: South Sea Islanders in Canoe.Engraving: W. Jackson.
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Clarke: Surf-bathing, 1874.Published inBookwalter, John Wesley:Canyon and Crater; Republic Printing Company,Springfield, Ohio, 1874.
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Jay Charlton: Natives Bathing In The Surf Near ‘Newport’ Three Miles From Honolulu, Towards Diamond Head, 1875. Printed with the article “King Kalakaua at Home” Leslie’s Illustrated Weekly, 23 January 1875.
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R.M. Ballantyne: The Natives Playing in the Water, 1880.Cover paste down and frontpiece toBallantyne, R.M.:The Cannibal Islands – Captain Cook’s Adventures in the South Seas.Nisbet and Co. Ltd., 22 Berners Street, London, circa 1880.
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King Kalakaua, Commodore and Mrs. John S. Dickerson, others, and surfboard rider, Waikiki, 1887
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First printed in Nordhoff, Charles: Hawaii Dei.Harper’s New Monthly Magazine, August 1873. Accredited as”Woodblock by Commander William Bainbridge Hoff(of the flagship California).”
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The illustration appeared in Swinton, William: Grammar School Geography, Ivison, Blakeman, Taylor, and Company, New York, 1881 It is possibly the geography book illustration recalled by John R. Musick on observing the surfboard riders at Kailua, Hawaii, in 1898, see below.. Perhaps borrowing from Musick, in 1908 Alexander Hume Ford wrote of a similar geography book inspiring his schoolboy dreams of surf riding in his article, Riding Breakers. Ford would virtually replicate the scene, including the grass huts, with the establishment of the Outrigger Canoe Club on Waikiki Beach in 1908.
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A Coral Island in the South Pacific, 1885. While not showing surf riding, this is a very dramatic illustration of large waves breaking on a coral reef. Illustration from: Gill, W. Wyatt: Jottings from the Pacific The Religious Tract Society, [London], 1885.
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A Gay Queen Of The Waves, 1888. Published to illustrate an article, Sandwich Island Girl, by a newspaper renowned for manufacturing content. Also note the similarity to the female surfboard rider in Karst: Scene in Polynesia (1881). Front cover of The National Police Gazette August 18, 1888.
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Wahine wave-riding, circa 1890. This image, its dating speculation, is only know to appear in Margan and Finney: Pictorial History (1971).
English: Hawaiian fisherman in a malo and ‘ahu lā‘ī, Mauna Kea in background; Hawai‘i. ca. 1890s.
English: Hawaiian fisherman in a malo and ‘ahu lā‘ī, Mauna Kea in background; Hawai‘i. ca. 1890s.
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Historians believe they have found the oldest surf photo ever. It was taken in the early 1890s in Hawaii. Herbert Smith, an amateur photographer born in Manchester, shot two Polynesian natives carrying surfboards on a sandy beach at Hilo Bay, on the Big Island of Hawaii. According to the specialists, the snap is more than 120 years old and was captured three decades before surfing became a proper tourist attraction in Waikiki Beach, Oahu.
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Oceanic Steamship Company: Surf Riding, Hawaii, 1890.Detail from a colour advertisement for J. D. Spreckles and Co. and the Oceanic Steamship Company.Whitney, Henry M. (editor) . The Tourists’ Guide through the Hawaiian Islands, The Hawaiian Gazette Co., Honolulu,1890.
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Canoe at Hilo Bay, Hawai’i circa 1890. Photograph Charles Furneaux, Bishop Museum.
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Schmit Litho Co., S.F.: Hawaiian Surf-Bathing, circa 1890.Printed inStoddard, William Charles : A Trip to Hawaii.Oceanic Steamship Company, San Francisco, 1895, page 35.
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Joseph Nash – Fred W. J. Airey:Landing in a Surf boat at Accra, 1891.Published in The GraphicLondon, August 15, 1891.
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John La Farge: Papara – Surf swimming, 1891.La Farge wrote of surfboard riding at Papara, Tahiti, earlier described by Daniel Wheeler in 1835.These sketches of prone surfboard riders were included in La Farge, John: South Seas Sketchbooks 1890-1891.
Sea Sledging, 1891.In the text the surfboard is called a “sea sledge,” and this crude representation has been amalgamated from several earlier illustrations.Printed inMather, Helen:One Summer in Hawaii.
Sea Sledging, 1891. In the text the surfboard is called a “sea sledge,” and this crude representation has been amalgamated from several earlier illustrations.Printed inMather, Helen:One Summer in Hawaii.
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Kelea, the Surf Rider of Maui, 1894.Illustration accompanying:Hawaiian Folk LoreEvening News.Sydney, 24 March, 1894, page 3.
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Expert Positions, 1896.Second of two illustrations published inThrum, Thomas G. (editor): Thrum ‘s Hawaiian Annual of 1896.Honolulu, 1896.
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Surf-riding, 1896. Header to the article Hawaiian Surf-riding.One of two illustrations, and a photograph of canoe surfing at Waikiki published inThrum, Thomas G. (editor): Thrum ‘s Hawaiian Annual of 1896.Honolulu, 1896.
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A Trip to Hawaii, 1897.Cover forStoddard, Charles Warren: A Trip to Hawaii.Oceanic Steamship Co., San Francisco, 1897. The frontpiece of the 1901 edition included a photograph by Frank Davey: Native with Surf Board, Waikiki Beach, circa 1898.
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Phillip E. Flintoff: Surf Rider, 1898.Cover [detail] ofMusick, John R..:Hawaii – Our New Possessions.Funk and Wagnalls, New York, 1898.
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Charles Weisser: Surfers, Waikiki, 1898.Printed inLa Nature, Number 1330, November 26th,1898.
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Charles Weisser: Surf Riding, Waikiki, 1898.Printed inLa Nature.
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British Museum: Surf-board of hard, blackened wood; length 71 inches, 1899.Printed inCulin, Stewart: Hawaiian GamesAmerican AnthropologistPutman, New York, April 1899.
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John F. Campbell: The native surf-riders [Nuie].Although the illustration accompanies text describing surfriding in Nuie in 1867, it was almost certainly drawn from an early Hawaiian photograph, with what is clearly Diamond Head in the background.Printed inHall, A. Gratten: James ChalmersGeorge Dorian Company, New York, [1910].
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Gleeson: Swimming with Boards, 1900.Printed inKrout, Mary H.: Alice’s Visit to the Hawaiian Islands.American Book Company, New York, 1900.
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Walter B. Townsend : A Native and his Surfboard, 1899
Серфинг в прессе 19 века
Благодаря архивам, нашлось множество упоминаний о серфинге в прессе 19 века. Удалось выяснить, что серфинг хоть и находился в упадке с 1800 года, но был частью развлекательных соревнований в США и на Гавайях – в итоге его даже сделали коммерческим и серфинг стал частью услуг для отдыхающих богатых людей. В прессе он часто упоминался и описывался журналистами. Примечательно, что серфинг упоминается в прессе Ост-Индии (на тот момент колонии Британской империи) и Австралии задолго до Дюка Каханамоку, хотя, как принято считать, именно он открыл серфинг для Австралии.
Из заметок в прессе можно сделать вывод, что несмотря на всю опасность воды, многие американские и европейские моряки не умели плавать, и для многих было настоящим откровением то, как взаимодействовали с океаном туземцы. Многим морякам принципы серфинга, задержки дыхания и плавания спасли жизнь! Были написаны правила поведения на воде, вероятно – первые в мире.
Ознакомимся с хронологическими заметками о серфинге в прессе 19 века. Здесь не все заметки, которые удалось найти, а лишь наиболее содержательные на языке оригинала.
Connecticut Courier
Bridgeport, Wednesday, 18 September 1822
“Both sexes are surprisingly dexterous in swimming, and so exceedingly fond of water as very frequently to continue in it from morning till night.
One method they have to amuse themselves is called ha-a-nah-roo, swimming with the surf on surf-boards.
These surf-boards are from 6 to 18 or 20 feet in length and from 10 to 20 or 24 inches in width and from two thirds of the way forward, back a little slanted, the fore end rounded, the hind one square ; the sides somewhat oval, and the edges rounded.
They are made of very light wood and neatly polished.
With these boards the natives run an the highest and most terrific surf for many rods with the most astonishing swiftness, steering the board in what direction they please with their hands and feet.
Great numbers may be seen when the surf is augmented to its greatest height is passing and re passing each other with the swiftness of a blrd flying in the air and being as very expert in managing their boards, it is very seldom any one is injured ; though there has been instances where the body has been cut in two in the middle, and where arms have been cut off by the sharp edge of the surf-board, the persons being unable to get out of its way, or those on the board were not able to keep it in its proper direction.
Setting out from the shore, they dive under several of the first wares letting them roll over them, rising successively beyond each wave till they have arrived sufficiently far out into the sea.
Having arrived at the smooth water they recline themselves upon their board, watching a favorable opportunity, they place themselves on the top of the largest surge, and giving their board a small inclination and at the same time using both hands as paddles, they are carried or driven along before the wave with rapidity towards the shore.
And having arrived near the shore, they make a short tern/turn (?), dive under the surf still keeping hold of the board with one hand, then arise at the top of the water and return again to sea.
Should they be separated from their board it would chance to be thrown against the rocks and dashed to pieces, or should they, through miscalculation, approach too near the rocks with which the shore is lined, if they did not in an instant leave the board and dive under the water they would be driven against them and destroyed.
The unparalleled courage and address with which they perform these manoeuvres are truly astonishing.
They will often